New To Yellowstone?
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Note: Plan to spend a lot of time in the car (this is a really big place), but so far, even our grandkids have never been bored. There is just too much to see and do while driving.
Topics You'll Find on This Page: 1. How Much Time Do I Need? 2. Roads 3. Binoculars, Scopes, AKA "Glass" 4. Logistics, Lodging, etc. 5. Cell Service 6. Driving Tips (including EV info) 7. Medical Facilities 8. Post Office 9. Sinclair Fuel Stations/Mechanics 10. Weather: Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter 11. Wildlife 12. Thermal Features, Geysers, Pools, and Fumaroles 13. Flowers More tips: Food / Eats, Stories, Maps 1. How Much Time Do I Need? We encourage new visitors to take at least one to two days for thermal features, the same for Canyon and Hayden scenic and wildlife viewing, and the same again for Lamar Valley and Mammoth – you still won’t see it all. Remember to consider visiting the Beartooth (10,900-ft pass to Red Lodge) and Chief Joseph Scenic Byway, as well as Pahaska Lodge and museum and the Buffalo Bill Dam between the East Entrance and Cody, WY. One could easily spend all day at Upper Geyser Basin (Old Faithful) and Norris Geyser Basin each if you walk all the trails and see all the thermal features. All that being said, you can easily spend two weeks and not be satisfied to have adequately seen the park ;-) 2. Roads - The caveat of early spring arrival is road closures. The Beartooth is closed until the Friday before Memorial Day, Dunraven Pass (the stretch between Tower and Canyon that completes the upper loop) is closed until late May (around the 21st). Coming too early may require longer drives back "home" without viewing the full loop (but doubling back is still a fantastic drive). Blacktail Plateau Drive east of Mammoth is closed until the end of June. Chief Joseph Scenic Byway, an outside-the-park fantastic drive, usually opens a few days after the first Monday of May. The Beartooth Highway, a must see on at least one of your Yellowstone trips (I mean, this place is addicting), usually opens the Friday before Memorial Day. This Page shows the Yellowstone general road opening and closing map, but be sure to check the current website for updates. This page takes you to the Wyoming Roads site to check current Beartooth and Chief Joseph Scenic Byway conditions between Cooke City, MT, and Cody, WY. Just be aware that - any road can be randomly closed for weather any time of year, but most of those closures are short-lived. 3. Binoculars or Scopes, AKA "Glass" Essential: bring binoculars or purchase them at a gift store in or out of the park. It's best to have at least one pair for every two people. Scopes are not essential, as likely someone nearby will share. Etiquette suggests not to ask if it's obviously being managed by a tour guide (check the vehicle door for a tour logo), as they need to honor their paying customers first. Be patient, they will most likely offer at some point. We always encourage others to look through ours as do many residents and visitors alike. 4. Yellowstone Logistics Reservations are made by so many a year in advance, within minutes of the opening window, and short notice trips are hard but not impossible. It’s just a matter of landing on the reservation web page at just the right time. Check often: Recreation.gov or https://www.yellowstonenationalparklodges.com early mornings or late nights for best results. We are savvy of some campgrounds outside of the park as well as boondocking sites, so ask if needed. 5. Cell Service: The only "reliable" cell service in the park is at major villages such as Mammoth, Grant, Old Faithful, Lake, Fishing Bridge, and Canyon. There is some sparse service for some carriers at Slough Creek in Little America west of Lamar Canyon, Elk Creek to Floating Island Lake on the north road, and potentially up the north side of Dunraven Pass (north of Canyon Village). There is no cell service at Madison or Norris. It is also nearly non-existent from a couple miles east of Fishing Bridge to Cody - that's a really long way - and from old Faithful to the Grand Tetons, so be prepared for large lapses, though we were pleasantly surprised by the expanded service noted in 2024. Neither Silver Gate nor Cooke City have service, but there is a pay phone in Cooke City – remember those? ;-) You may also tap into the Internet service at Cooke City Chamber of Commerce while visiting their lovely little museum - just plan to be inside or sit at the table on the porch. Travel north of Gardiner is blessed with cell service all the way to Livingston on the freeway except one five-minute spot going through Yankee Jim Canyon. 6. Driving Tips: Please abide by the speed limit. People and animals die here from distraction or the over-enthusiasm of being on a tight time-frame (speeding).
7. Medical facilities are located in Mammoth and at Lake Village, and 911 works in many places but not all. If you see someone with a black "wolf" radio (more common on the north road Hwy 212), they can usually relay for emergency help. 8. Post offices are located at Canyon, Mammoth, and Grant Village. 9. Sinclair Gas Stations offer fuel and propane along with mini stores.
10. Weather: Always come prepared to layer including hats and gloves. It's common for spring all the way through fall to be very cold in the mornings and evenings, the best wildlife watching times, and then turn hot (usually less than 90F) during the day. It can also snow any time of year, but in summer months the snow usually disappears by noon, so don't panic and leave if it happens - enjoy it :-). Since wildlife sightings are best early and late, and since we are often outside of the vehicle for those sightings, we usually begin our day with thermal underclothes, change mid morning, and don them again near sundown. Summer weather is usually mild, except thunderstorms nearly every afternoon. Sometimes they are big, sometimes small, but they usually pass through in an hour or so followed by sunshine - another fantastic time to view wildlife, just after a thunderstorm. The storm may pass overhead with a deluge or pass right nearby and not drop any rain. In any case, they are very cool to watch. We often choose this time to enjoy lunch or dinner inside the car while being duly entertained outside. As mentioned, don't be discouraged by poor weather, as some of our best wildlife sightings have been just before or after a rain storm. Sorting Out Times of Year: In referencing wildlife "numbers" below, bison and elk are always numerous though they may transition from one area of the park to another depending on weather and seasons. The most important planning piece is that there are days when one will barely see any animals (particularly not wolves) and other days that the animals take over the park. To be sure you see what you want, it is best to plan more than one and at least three days minimum for wildlife viewing - just in case. Spring - In our mind, this is the best time to visit with a few caveats. Spring touts the best wildlife in variety, numbers, and newborns. May can still be brown, but June is the best time for greenery, beginning flowers, and beautiful river flows. The park begins to dry up mid-July, though the higher elevations tout amazing wildflower displays in July as well. Depending on the previous winter's demise (when snow pack and rainfall decreases), greenery usually goes away in July. Though still beautiful, there is no comparison to enjoying the park its amazing lush green blanket of June - a must see. Summer - We particularly enjoy beginning our summer at Cooke City's spectacular July 4th parade and fireworks. Animal life tends to slow down a little but still worthy of enjoyment. Black bears seem to disappear for us, but though we don't often seen them mid-July into late August and early September when the berries come on, people do report sightings. No matter, there are never as many blacks later in the year as in Spring when at times we've seen twelve-plus a day and combined with grizzlies, sometimes over thirty may be viewed one day. Grizzlies are most prevalent over blacks mid-August to late fall, as they are open feeders and in hyperphagia (meaning every day is a Thanksgiving feast for them). August begins bison rut, the time when bulls bellow to broadcast their place in the hierarchy. It's the only time of year to consistently hear their truly impressive "verbiage." Caution is advised. Though the park recommends a 25-yard buffer for these animals, after having been chased by one from 200 yards away, we do our best to maintain at least 100-yards distance unless in a vehicle. Late September launches elk rut as the bulls lose their antler velvet and begin bugling and chasing cars ;-). They, too, warrant respect of distance. Again, having been chased by an elk in Jasper National Park, Canada, last year by a younger bull that "snuck" up on me, caution is warranted. It's important to always be aware of your surroundings without allowing yourself to become distracted by your camera or even your awe at the sighting. Check your back trail often. The weather in September often alternates between sun, rain, and rare short-term snow, but is a fantastic time to visit, just don't expect the salivating look of lush green. October - the weather really starts getting cold with potential (maybe even guaranteed) freezing at night. October 18, 2023, we had about eight inches of snow over a couple days in the warm belt - Gardiner. Winter- All roads except Hwy 212 from Mammoth to Cooke City close November 1st and don't reopen until December 15, and only snow coaches or snowmobiles (with special permits) are allowed into the park-central areas from mid-December to mid-March. The show continues for private cars (and tours) on Hwy 212 from Mammoth to Cooke City year around (weather dependent). The road is closed beyond Cooke City, which means you can't get to Cody, WY, that way. So, from November on your only access into the park is that north road - unless booking a specialty tour - between December 14 and March 15-ish. You will also not see bears on that north road from about mid-November into March, but you will likely see all the other usuals and may have a better chance to view wolves during that time, usually at quite a distance but not always. 11. Wildlife- The most variety of wildlife seems to be in the north and east areas of the park, that is Lamar Valley, though many animals are also found between Mammoth and Old Faithful and then Hayden Valley on the east side. Also, east of Fishing Bridge to Lake Butte Overlook is a fantastic place to view grizzly bears (Raspberry, Snow, and Jam), birds, bison, elk, and the rare wolf. The southeast, south, and southwest area seems to have less wildlife but more thermal features and lake activities (so expect more people there). Click here to see my annotated wildlife map. Some of the animals seen are: fox, coyotes, wolves, moose, bear, goats (Baronet pullout toward the NE enterance), big horn sheep, Harlequin ducks (May and June at LeHardy Rapids), bull snakes (rare), Uinta ground squirrels, marmots, and one of our favorites - badgers. 12. Thermal Features, Geysers, Pools, and Fumaroles- There are thousands of thermal features, so in the interest of NOT overwhelming us all, I'll mention a few key must-see features. By the way, we ALWAYS carry bear spray even on the boardwalks, as bears too appreciate an easy path. Mammoth boardwalks - the museum in the Visitor's Center is nice and easy to see quickly. Be sure to venture the hall behind the Ranger's Desk for up close wildlife scenes. The Yellowstone Forever store inside has a wildlife map similar to my notated one but professionally printed with species highlights on the back for about $7. It's a worthy purchase and great souvenir. Norris Geyser Basin - Steamboat Geyser is the tallest geyser in the world, very unpredictable, and slowing down (sad face). Walking one or both loops makes for a long day if you are doing anything else in the park, so if I don't have all day, or don't feel like walking fast, I take the boardwalk on the left to peek at Steamboat and then come back to the trailhead to walk the smaller north loop. At very least, I suggest going to the overlook of both Norris basins under the roof of the visitors education station – the fumarole sound and thermal colors are incredible. Note: Steam boat will erupt first 300-ft in the air and then continue to erupt for hours 20 – 30 feet in the air. It's a good idea to avoid parking in the parking lot as your car may be covered in “steam” made of who-knows-what that can definitely damage paint and windows. If the wind is blowing that way – and it usually is, at least rinse your vehicle as soon as possible. They do have on-street parking outside the lot. Remember your bear spray . . . Firehole River Drive - south of Madison Junction is a few minutes detour that drops you back on the road south. Sadly, no busses or RVs allowed. This is a gorgeous waterfall and river drive. Firehole Lake Drive - This is where you’ll find Great Fountain Geyser, by far our favorite – head and shoulders above all the others (although we really enjoy Grand Geyser, too). Great Fountain erupts about every 12 hours. Be sure to wait-it-out once it's started, as it will recharge and erupt several times in a row, sometimes to a lesser degree and sometimes even more profoundly. Midway Geyser Basin touts the famous Grand Prismatic Spring. Because it’s dramatically gorgeous, there is often a mile-long line of cars waiting just to get into the parking lot. Roadside parking is often full as well. To really see it, we drive a couple minutes south to the Grand Prismatic Spring overlook parking area and hike the half-mile trail, which is a nice wide trail with a significant, but not too long, uphill at the end. Please plan at least an hour or more and watch for bison on or near the trail. Biscuit Basin (2025 Update: closed for safety reasons due to the Black Diamond Pool explosion in 2024) - our favorite pool basin has a gorgeous variety of clear colored pools. If you can only see one pool basin, we recommend this even over Midway Geyser Basin, as long as you have already walked the Grand Prismatic Overlook. Black Sands Basin - It's small, and we love this one, but if tight on time, it’s something we might leave for next time. Old Faithful is a must see (tho parking can be difficult even in the gigantic visitor center parking lot). It is guaranteed always to be busy. Bear in mind that where it's a fantastic geyser, it's not really the tallest or most spectacular geyser. It's fame comes from its reliability. When we stop by, we park in the Old Faithful Inn, not the Visitor Center lot, and either walk over to the geyser or grab a beverage and sit on the second level balcony overlooking the geyser. The Old Faithful Inn itself is a must see, as well. I understand that if you check in at the bellhop desk, it may be possible to secure a cancellation for a Crow's Nest tour, that's the roof (but shhh, don't tell anyone). We have yet to see it. Riverside and Grand Geyser - Both are located close together in the Upper Geyser Basin at Old Faithful, where one could easily spend an entire day. We’ve heard several people ask, “Why does Old Faithful get all the publicity when these two are way more spectacular but not even mentioned or known?” Yep, these two are great! Castle Geyser, Beehive, and the Grotto are on the same walk and are really quite cool, as well. Kepler Cascades - Between Old Faithful and Grant Village, it's a quick and pretty stop. Say hi to the resident raven that sits begging in the parking lot - note that it's a serious fine (I believe up to $5000) to feed ANY animal (squirrels, birds, badgers, snakes, bears, you get the idea). The only exception to this rule is the mosquito, of which you will be hard pressed to avoid feeding at least once while here, but that privilege comes with no legal ramifications ;-) West Thumb Basin - This basin is relatively small but lovely with its pools and light cascading flows into the Lake. Early (1800s - early 1900s) visitors would catch fish in the lake and cook them in the geysers until they began dying of arsenic poisoning, so we recommend avoiding following suit ;-). It’s a nice boardwalk. Watch for bear and elk in the area. Hiking - The following trails are about two miles or less (rt = round trip):
13. Flowers- Yellowstone's unsurpassed wildflower season is very dependent on winter's wane but generally runs from mid-May into early or mid-July. Dunraven Pass is stunning mid June and Beartooth Highway in later June and July. More to come . . . |
